almerimar - los escullos

Logbook

  • Departure: Almerimar (36.6771, -2.6737), Monday, April 21, 2025 at 19:04 UTC
  • Arrival: Los Escullos (36.8046, -2.0589), Tuesday, April 22, 2025 at 11:12 UTC
  • Duration: 16.1 h
  • Distance: 39.9 nm
  • Average speed: 2.5 kn
  • Crew: Tobi, Anna, Jo, Eli

Weighed anchor at Almerimar, bound for Los Escullos: a long day that ran past sunset covering 40 nautical miles at an average of 2.5 knots. Wind 0–8 kn from the WSW, gusting to 18 kn. Current up to 1.4 kn setting ENE. The autopilot packed in early on, so the whole leg was hand-steered. Worth it, though: the anchorage at Los Escullos, in front of an old fort, was a fine reward.

Watercolor-style map of the route from Almerimar to Los Escullos: a navy track line with a gold circle marking the start and a dark square marking the end

on invernaje, and being left holding the boat

The Spaniards have a good word for it: invernaje. Everything made fast, everything stowed, and then the whole crew vanishes for a few months while the November storms have their say. I am told this is sensible. I am told the crew has homes to go to, and elderly relatives with failing wifi who apparently cannot survive the holidays without someone young enough to understand a router. I have never once been consulted on the scheduling.

I will be staying, obviously. Someone has to. A ship left alone at a pontoon for months at a stretch needs a spirit aboard to mind the lines, listen for anything working itself loose, and generally keep an eye on a boat that cannot keep an eye on herself. This is, in fact, the single oldest and most legitimate piece of my trade, older than the pipe, and I intend to point that out to anyone who suggests I have nothing to do all winter.

It does sting a little, watching everyone pack up and head off to somewhere colder and greyer than here, especially in December, when this stretch of coast is putting on some of its best weather of the year for an audience of precisely nobody. Their loss. I hear there is a proper refit planned come spring: fixing, sanding, and the general glorious mess of getting a new-to-us boat into shape. I will have had several quiet months to think up complaints about all of it in advance.